Bangalow Cheese Co 'Nashua'

Washed rind
Cow's milk (mixed Friesian/Guernsey/Jersey/Swiss Brown)
Northern Rivers
150g discs
6 weeks maturation
www.bangalowcheese.com.au

I love this cheese. I first discovered it at the ASCA Sydney Cheese Show in 2009, where I nominated it as best cheese in show. Sadly, my affection was not shared by the other judges at that particular show, and another cheese took the gong on the day.

Clearly, I was ahead of the times, because at the Sydney Royal Cheese Show in 2010, it won Gold in its class, as well as Champion Bovine Cheese and Champion Fancy Cheese.

Bangalow Cheese Co 'Nashua'

Cheesemaker Justin Telfer washes the infant cheeses in a salty brine, then lets a little bit of bloomy white mould develop on the surface. His approach is very much about allowing the cheeses to develop distintive characteristics depending on the season, and the subtle changes in each batch of milk.

Like many Australian washed rind cheeses, 'Nashua' is at its best in Autumn. When perfectly ripe, its texture is soft and pillowy, and it oozes invitingly when cut. The best batches have a distinctive hint of earth and truffles in amongst all that golden gooeyness.

After a break from the limelight last year, 'Nasha' was back to form at this year's Sydney Royal where it again earned a Gold medal in its class, and the Trophy for Champion Fancy Cheese. Not bad for a little hand-made cheese from a little town in the Northern Rivers.

Jannei 'Bûche Noir'

Ashed Chèvre
Goat's milk (Saanen)
Blue Mountain Ranges
150g rounds or 250g logs
www.jannei.com

For anyone who thinks they "don't like goat's cheese", do yourself a favour and try this. Jannei's 'Bûche Noir' is one of the cleanest-tasting, consistently good goat's milk cheeses in Australia - and it hails from the Blue Mountain Ranges, just past Lithgow.

Jannei 'Bûche Noir'

There are two version of this cheese - 'Bûche Blanc', the 'white' version, and 'Bûche Noir', which is dusted in a very fine layer of black ash.  I prefer the ashed 'Noir'. The charcoal doesn't change the flavour or texture of the cheese, but I find it keeps the surface a bit dryer, and it looks stunning.

Not surprisingly, it just won another gold medal at the ASCA Sydney Cheese Show last month, along with Jannei's Fresh Curd and 'Bent Back' Chèvre.

I love its very smooth texture, lemony zesty tang, and freshing acidity, and the fact that it pairs perfectly with my favourite wine style, young Semillon from the Hunter Valley. Like all goat's cheeses, it's also good with Sauvignon Blanc, but I think the Semillon gives it a unique racy edge.

Small Cow Farm 'Small Cow Blue'

Blue
Cow's milk
Southern Highlands
2kg wheels
3-4 months maturation
www.smallcowfarm.com

This is one of Australia's strongest and most characterful blues, and it's made just a short distance from Sydney at Robertson in the Southern Highlands.

Small Cow Blue

Created by Mark and Lesley Williams, 'Small Cow Blue has quite a spicy tang, with a distinctive underlying sweetness. The milk for this cheese comes from a single herd in the Southern Highlands, rather than the Williams' heard of Dexter cows, whose luscious milk is better suited to making soft, white-mould styles.

While the maturation details are a closely-guarded secret, the cheese is allowed to ripen with a natural blue mould growing on the outside, which adds to its full-bodied character. I suspect the cheese is at least partially matured under a wax coating, which may explain its sweet, fruity notes.

At last year's ASCA Sydney Cheese Show, two version were entered. The aged version was really powerful - big, spicy, fruity, sweet - but the slightly younger entry was spot-on for me. It had the perfect balance of salt and spice, with a gorgeous underlying creaminess and a lovely tang on the finish. It reminded me of my favourite all-time blue, Valdeon from Spain (minus the Sycamore leaves).

Small Cow Blue is perfect for Winter, particularly when paired with a rich, raisiny tokay or PX sherry.