Binnorie Brie

White Mould
Cow's milk
Hunter Valley
1kg wheels
www.binnorie.com.au

It's time to celebrate the end of another year of discovering great local cheeses. How better to do it than with a whole wheel of brie? It's the cheese equivalent of comfort food - mild, creamy, and not too challenging.

Binnorie Brie

Binnorie Brie is one of the best value around. It's often released quite young, so buy a whole wheel to keep for a few weeks in the fridge, and enjoy it at its peak, near the best before date.

Cheese-maker Simon Gough has created a consistently good cheese that is smooth and creamy when fully ripe, with sweet butter flavours and a hint of mushrooms.

Pair it with a bottle of bubbles and a baguette for an instant crowd-pleaser.

So here's to a cheesy new year, and another 365 days of eating, enjoying and discovering more delicious local cheeses.

Paesanella Ricotta

Fresh
Cow's milk
Sydney
1kg & 2kg baskets
www.paesanella.com.au

Paesanella means 'country peasant girl' in the Italian dialect of Umberto Somma, who founded Paesanella Cheese Manufacturers in 1962. That's right, 1962 - making them one of the first artisan cheese producers in NSW.

Paesanella Ricotta

It's fitting, then, that their flagship cheese is an ingenious peasant food. Ricotta - which means "re-cooked" in Italian - was originally created to ensure that nothing went to waste. In its most traditional form, ricotta is made from the whey left-over from making cheeses such as fresh mozzarella, the other signature cheese from Paesanella. Traditional whey ricotta has a very light texture and a flavour reminiscent of egg white, or albumen.

Most modern ricotta in Australia, including Paesanella's, is now produced with whole milk, rather than left-over whey. The best examples still achieve the texture of the traditional style, but the flavour is more milky and less eggy.

You can still buy fresh Paesanella ricotta in the basket - still warm if you get there early enough - from the Marrickville factory, every morning except Saturdays. Spread some on fruit toast and drizzle with honey for the perfect cheesy breakfast.

Nimbin Valley Dairy 'Sweet Goat'

Semi-hard
Goat's milk (mixed Saanen, Toggenberg, British Alpine)
Northern Rivers
3kg wheels
3-6 months maturation
www.nimbinvalley.com.au

Close your eyes and take a bite of Sweet Goat, and you could be in the French Alps, nibbling Tomme de Chevre. But chances are, you're probably surrounded by the verdant pastures of the Nimbin Valley, because this cheese is rarely found beyond the Northern Rivers region.

Nimbin Valley Sweet Goat

Cheesemaker Paul Wilson has crafted a beautiful cheese with a mild, earthy aroma, thanks to a rustic rind mottled with pinks, whites and browns. The texture is smooth and supple, and the flavour is reminiscent of hazelnuts, with hints of caramel.

We are fortunate to have cheese-makers like Paul in NSW. Not only does he make great cheese, he wants to make even better cheese, and has travelled to France twice in the last couple of years to improve his craft.

I was lucky enough to try a Sweet Goat that had been matured for more than six months. I ordered it when it was made last Spring, and waited patiently until Autumn, when Paul was satisfied that it had reached its potential. When I tasted it for the first time, I was overwhelmed by its heady aromas, and marvelled at its clean, complex flavours and long finish.

I would happily declare it the best aged goat's cheese I've tasted in years.

Pecora Dairy Fresh Curd

Fresh
Ewe's milk (East Friesian)
Southern Highlands
www.pecoradairy.com.au

At about this time every year, I get very excited about fresh goat's curd signalling the arrival of Spring. This year there's a new reason to get excited: the Fresh Curd from Pecora Dairy, made from ewe's milk.

Pecora Dairy Fresh Curd

As cheese-maker Michael McNamara explained, the curd is rich and earthy in Autumn, when the ewes are reaching the end of their lactation cycle, then re-emerges in Spring with fresh, spritely flavours, capturing the essence of the new season.

The pretty pat of curd has a dense texture, almost like cream cheese, and the sweetness of the ewe's milk shines through. At such a chaotic time of year, with torrential rain, lambing and the flush of new milk to deal with, it's wonderful to know that Michael and Cressy can find enough calm moments to create such simple, beautiful cheese.

The curd is equally good with sweet and savoury foods. I crumbled half of it on top of vege nachos - like an authentic queso fresco - and gobbled up the rest for breakfast on pancakes drizzled with honey.

Country Valley Washed Rind

Washed Rind
Cow's milk
Southern Highlands
Random weight wedges
6 weeks maturation
www.countryvalley.com.au

Country Valley has been supplying milk to local cheesemakers for many years, so it makes sense that they recently developed their own cheese range.

Country Valley Washed Rind

The cheeses aren't made at the farm near Picton - John Fairley and the team are too busy producing their delicious milk and sensational yoghurt - but made under licence by High Valley Wine & Cheese Co in Mudgee. If you turn over the Washed Rind cheese, you'll notice it actually has "Mudgee Rouge" printed on the back of the label.

The faint orange hue, and faintly pungent aroma, hint at the cheese's character. It's relatively mild as far as washed rinds go, but delivers a step up in flavour from their Brie. The flavour is very clean, without the unpleasant animal notes that can develop in some washed rind cheeses - testament to Country Valley's high quality milk.

Like their yoghurt, the cheese has a glossy, voluptuous texture, and is delicious dolloped on fresh, crusty bread, with a glass of something bubbly.

AusBuff Stuff Buffalo Mozzarella

Stretched Curd
Buffalo milk (with 20% cow's milk)
Mid-North Coast
110g tubs

Like many cheese-lovers who travel to Italy, Ian and Kim Massingham fell in love with fresh buffalo mozzarella. They were so inspired by the cheese that they purchased a herd of buffalo and the necessary equipment to make cheese, travelled to Italy again to learn from the experts, and haven't looked back.

They're currently making fresh mozzarella - and other fresh cheeses and gelato - using frozen buffalo milk transported from Cairns, blended with a little cow's milk sourced locally.

Lucky for them, buffalo milk can be frozen and transported very successfully, and the results are promising, with clean flavours and good textures in the cheese so far. They hope to make the switch to milk from their own herd "any day now"; when that happens, they'll be the only farmhouse buffalo milk cheesemakers in NSW.

You'll find son Nathan at several farmers' markets between Sydney and the QLD boarder, peddling their fresh cheeses, gelato and buffalo meat products - just look for the buffalo-esque moustache.


AusBuff Stuff
Buffalo Mozzarella

While we tend to think of fresh mozzarella as a summer cheese, the Massingham's herd produces milk all year round, and the cheese is available year-round too

So grab some late season figs, toss them in a bowl with freshly picked rocket, and tear the mozzarella into chunks. Dress with olive oil, balsamic vinegar and salt & pepper, and you have the perfect autumn lunch.

Pecora Dairy 'Mezza'

Semi-hard
Ewe's milk (East Friesian)
Southern Highlands
random weight wedges
8 weeks-8 months maturation
www.pecoradairy.com.au

Most wine-lovers are prepared to pay more for an aged bottle of wine, but would the average cheese-lover fork out a few extra dollars for a matured cheese?

It's a dilemma many small cheesemakers face - how to balance cash-flow with a desire to produce cheeses that require maturation of more than a few weeks. Think of it this way - every 1kg of cheese sitting quietly in a cheese maturation cellar represents around 10 litres of milk that the cheesemaker has not yet made any return on.

Pecora Dairy 'Mezza'

At peak maturity of 8 or 9 months, Pecora Dairy's "Mezza" has all the richness, complexity and elegance of the best Basque-style cheeses, the best-known of which is Ossau-Iraty.

It's a shame, then, that most of the "Mezza" sold is barely a few months old. The younger version is a very pleasant cheese with clean, fresh flavours, but the aged version fills the mouth with toasted nuts and caramel and lingers with a hint of lanolin on the finish. And there's something magical about the very fine-grained texture, which is smooth and dense and utterly scoffable.

(Scoffable, by the way, is not a technical term, and unlikely to have been used by any of the judges who recently awarded Mezza a gold medal at the Sydney Royal Cheese Show.)

So my plea is two-fold: please, wonderful cheesemakers, have the confidence and patience to give your beautiful cheeses the time they deserve to fully develop their potential. And please, dear consumers, reward their efforts by paying a little bit more for these cheeses that are aged to perfection.