Marrook Farm 'Mountain Swiss' (aka 'Potholes')

Mountain-style
Cow's milk (Ayrshire)
Mid-North Coast
www.marrookfarm.com.au

The good people at Feather & Bone in Sydney recently introduced me to another fine, Swiss-style cheese from Marrook Farm. When they first took delivery of this new creation, they asked cheesemaker David Marks why he hadn't named it after a local land-mark, like his other hard cheeses, 'Bulga' and 'Brinawa'. In typical, straight-talking style, David replied that there were indeed a lot of potholes in the local area.

Marrook Farm 'Potholes'

While it is tempting to call the cheese an Emmental-style - that stereotypical "Swiss" cheese with holes in it - David insists it's not. It does utilise Propionibacteria to form the holes (these bacteria produce CO2 during the cheese's maturation, which pools inside the cheese forming holes or 'eyes'), it's not made using a 'hard-cooked' method like other Swiss-style cheeses. In fact, the recipe and method is a closely guarded secret, which David and his neighbour, a retired cheesemaker, came up with while experimenting last year.

Most cheesemakers would take months or years to develop cheese of this quality through experimentation, trial and error, but David just seems to have the knack when it comes to mountain-style cheeses.

Of all Marrook Farm's hard cheeses, I think 'Potholes' shows off the sweetness of the farm's milk best. The aroma of sweet, cultured cream gives way to a delighfully supple texture, filling the mouth with flavours of cultured butter, mushrooms and a hint of sweetness. It would probably make an excellent cooking cheese - think fondue made with 'Potholes' for melt-ability and 'Bulga' for depth of flavour - but I wouldn't know, because I ate the whole piece on its own.

Like all of Marrook Farm's hard cheeses, 'Potholes' is only made when the cows are exclusively feeding on pasture, so availability is seasonal. But well worth seeking out.

Country Valley 'Lush' Natural Yoghurt

Cow's milk
Southern Highlands
500g tubs
www.countryvalley.com.au

Since leaving Sydney at the end of last year, I really miss my daily fix of Country Valley yoghurt. Most days I ate it for breakfast, and it was normally the last thing I ate at the end of the day too, just a spoonful to settle my stomach before bed.

Country Valley 'Lush' Natural Yoghurt

Why do I love it? Because it's natural. And by that, I mean it is only made with two ingredients - milk and cultures. No thickeners like gelatin or vegetable gums, no stablisers, no 'non-fat milk solids' (whatever they are), no flavours, no colours and no sweeteners. Take a look at the ingredients list on so many commercially-made yoghurts these days, and most will have at least 2 of these additives; some will have all of them!

Unlike pot-set yoghuts, which often have a slightly lumpy texture and a little bit of free whey oozing from the top, Country Valley 'Lush' is thick, glossy and voluptuous.

And it's also really acidic. Yoghurt is supposed to have a sharp, citric tang, and this is one of the most acidic on the market. I'm probably in the minority, but I love eating it straight. When I told 'John the Milkman' himself, he couldn't believe I liked it unadulterated. So I asked him, if he thinks it's too acidic, why make it that way? He said he likes to give customers the option of adding honey or fruit to suit their own taste. Fair enough.

For those who just can't take that sharp, mouth-puckering tang, John and Sally Fairley also make a naturally sweetened version (somewhat confusingly labelled "Plain Yoghurt", in a blue tub), which is a lot easier on the palate. It still has a sharp acidity underneath, but it's perfectly balanced by just the right amount of sweetness.

So perfect, in fact, that it won Champion Yoghurt at the Sydney Royal Dairy Produce Show this year. Again.

Binnorie Dairy 'Buche de Chevre'

Matured goat log
Goat's milk
Hunter Valley
150g logs
2-3 weeks maturation
www.binnorie.com.au

There are two seasons for goat's milk cheeses - Spring and Autumn. In Spring I prefer the light, fresh curds and lemony fresh chevres, the arrival of which heralds the start of the season for me. But in Autumn, I enjoy more mature styles with stronger flavours and firmer textures that can be lingered over.

Binnorie Dairy
'Buche de Chevre'

Binnorie's 'Buche de Chevre', roughly translated as "goat's log", is a perfect Autumn goat's milk cheese. Cheesemaker, and former microbiologist, Simon Gough sources the milk from a single herd near the cheesery at Pokolbin, in the heart of the Hunter Valley wine region.

The young cheeses are dusted with vine ash before being left to mature for a couple of weeks. During this time, they develop their bloomy white rinds around the outside. The black ash just under the rind makes for a lovely contrast against the stark white of the cheese, which has a firm, chalky centre, and rich, fudgey texture.

If you're lucky enough to get one that is firm right through, without a runny layer beneath the rind (difficult to achieve with matured goat's milk cheeses) slice it into rounds and melt it on top of field mushrooms that have been baked with a splash of red wine, a sprig of fresh thyme and a generous grind of pepper. The complex, nutty flavours of the cheese perfectly complement the earthiness of the mushrooms. Autumn on a plate.

Bangalow Cheese Co 'Nashua'

Washed rind
Cow's milk (mixed Friesian/Guernsey/Jersey/Swiss Brown)
Northern Rivers
150g discs
6 weeks maturation
www.bangalowcheese.com.au

I love this cheese. I first discovered it at the ASCA Sydney Cheese Show in 2009, where I nominated it as best cheese in show. Sadly, my affection was not shared by the other judges at that particular show, and another cheese took the gong on the day.

Clearly, I was ahead of the times, because at the Sydney Royal Cheese Show in 2010, it won Gold in its class, as well as Champion Bovine Cheese and Champion Fancy Cheese.

Bangalow Cheese Co 'Nashua'

Cheesemaker Justin Telfer washes the infant cheeses in a salty brine, then lets a little bit of bloomy white mould develop on the surface. His approach is very much about allowing the cheeses to develop distintive characteristics depending on the season, and the subtle changes in each batch of milk.

Like many Australian washed rind cheeses, 'Nashua' is at its best in Autumn. When perfectly ripe, its texture is soft and pillowy, and it oozes invitingly when cut. The best batches have a distinctive hint of earth and truffles in amongst all that golden gooeyness.

After a break from the limelight last year, 'Nasha' was back to form at this year's Sydney Royal where it again earned a Gold medal in its class, and the Trophy for Champion Fancy Cheese. Not bad for a little hand-made cheese from a little town in the Northern Rivers.

Hunter Belle Cheese 'Belleyere'

Gruyere-style (Hard Cooked)
Cow's milk (Brown Swiss)
Hunter Valley
~3kg wheels
2-4 months maturation
www.hunterbellecheese.com.au

Hard cheeses are not widely made in Australia, let alone in New South Wales, so Hunter Belle's 'Belleyere' rates a special mention. Pronounced bell-yeah, it is made in a Gruyere-style, and matured for around 3 months.

Hunter Belle 'Belleyere'

Owned and operated by Geoff and Tania Chesworth, Hunter Belle makes cheeses exclusively from the milk of Brown Swiss cows, sourced from a single herd near Singleton. Most of them have belle-themed names, a legacy of the original cheesemaker which is being continued by current cheesemaker Tim Gadischke.

The rich milk from these pasture-fed cows produces a deep, golden colour in the 'Belleyere'. It has the slightly pungent aroma of a smear-ripened cheese like Tilsit, a compact Gruyere texture, a mild Cheddar-like tang, and a lingering sweet aftertaste - a little bit of something for everyone.

Small Cow Farm 'PetitVache'

White Mould
Cow's milk
Southern Highlands
1kg wheels/250g wheels
4-6 weeks maturation
www.smallcowfarm.com

You'd be hard-pressed to find a better, more consistent Brie and Camembert in Australia that those produced by Small Cow Farm. In my many years eating, selling and enjoying these cheeses, they have always been ripe and flavoursome, and with individual characteristics reflecting the seasons.

Small Cow Farm 'PetitVache'
Brie and Camembert

Both Brie and Camembert are produced with the moniker 'PetitVache' - a literal translation of "Small Cow" into French - but are distinguished by their size. Generally I find the Brie to be milder but more buttery, and the Camembert tends to have more developed flavours with stronger, mushroomy notes.

While the Williams' don't use their own Dexter milk to make these delectable softies anymore, they still source all of the milk from neighbouring farms in the Southern Highlands. The high annual rainfall and rich, lush pastures in this part of the state create luscious milk ideal for making soft cheeses.

I particularly like them in Summer, because they pair so beautifully with stone fruits. The combination of ripe, juicy peach with a generous wedge of buttery brie is as perfect as,  well... peaches and cream.

Pecora Dairy 'Jamberoo Mountain' Blue

Blue mould
Ewe's milk (East Friesian)
Southern Highlands
~700g barrels
10-12 weeks maturation
www.pecoradairy.com.au

At exactly this time last year, Michael & Cressida McNamara did a really brave thing. They entered their 'Jamberoo Mountain' Blue into the Sydney Royal Cheese Show. With just under 1000 products entered into the competition that year, it might not seem like such a bold move, but here's the thing: the McNamara's had not yet sold a piece of their precious blue cheese.

Pecora Dairy
'Jamberoo Mountain' Blue

They had, however, been making cheese for over 6 years, with around 150 experimental batches, before building the confidence to launch their creation. Their hard work and determination to make an excellent product paid off, when they won the only Gold Medal in the entire class of Sheep's Milk Cheese in the show.

As a judge at that show, I recall being excited and intrigued at this exquisite blue cheese that I'd never come across before - and even more excited when I learned that it was made by a new producer from NSW.

'Jamberoo Mountain' Blue's character is still evolving, but the most recent batch I tried had delicate flavours of white flowers and apricots, with that tell-tale sheep's milk sweetness. The texture was moderately firm, with a very creamy mouthfeel. It really is ewe-nique!

Willowbrae Chèvre Cheese 'Marinated Chèvre'

Fresh (Marinated)
Goat's milk (mostly Toggenburg, with Anglo-Nubian & Saanen)
Hawkesbury Valley (Blue Mountains foothills)
300g jars

Willowbrae Chèvre Cheeses have been a permanent fixture at many farmers' markets around Sydney since the very early days of "growers" markets. Willowbrae's marinated chèvre - their flagship cheese - was the first NSW farmhouse cheese I ever tried, way back before I was a "cheese person".

Willowbrae Chèvre Cheese
Marinated Chèvre

Twelve years ago Karen & David Borg swapped corporate life for a patch of land at Wilberforce and a couple of goats, and have since grown their herd to 100 milkers, and their range of cheeses to around a dozen. David looks after the goats, Karen makes the cheese, and daughter Kate makes a regular appearance at many of the markets where the cheeses are exclusively sold.

Using a similar technique to gnocchi-making, Karen rolls the fresh chèvre into sausage-like logs then cuts it into small pieces, before marinating it in a delicate blend of sunflower and olive oils, with garlic and fresh herbs. I'm not normally a fan of flavoured and marinated cheeses - perhaps that's the cheese snob in me - but I like this one because the marinade is not overpowering, and you can still taste the distinctive goat's milk cheese underneath.

It's delicous spread on good, wholemeal bread with a slice of fresh, ripe tomato, and even better atop home-made pizza. Plus, the left-over marinade makes an excellent salad dressing.

Udder Farm Premium Jersey Full Cream Milk

Non-homogenised milk
Jersey cows
Hunter Valley
750ml glass bottles
www.udderfarm.com.au

My first post for the new year takes us back to where it all begins - real milk. As it's also the first post from my new home town of Newcastle, I've chosen something local from the Hunter Valley.

Udder Farm Premium Jersey
Full Cream Milk

This old-fashioned milk is the latest addition to the range of milks, cream and cheese from Greg Haines, a dairy farmer from Luskintyre near Maitland. Greg and his family milk the cows twice each day and bottle their milk several times a week, to be sold in corner stores and markets in the local area.

Already the distinctive glass bottles are developing a cult-like following, with stories circulating of how customers are re-using them in creative ways - from bottling pasta sauce and salad dressings to rainwater and homebrew.

It's real milk with nothing added, and nothing taken away. And it tastes sensational - silky smooth, clean and sweet. I challenge you not to dip in a spoon and eat the thick plug of cream on top.